"No one has died, yet"

(9.26.08 Good Bar. Cat Ba Island, Vietnam)

(9.17.08)We stepped off the bus into light rains and about 65 degree temperature in Dalat! It felt amazing, coming from the 100+ humid temperatures of Southeast Asia. We were dropped off at a hotel and walked inside to check it out. The rooms were only 10$ for two and included breakfast, wifi and hot water. A/C wasn’t needed. Travis was ready to check in, as was I, however on principle you have to at least say no and try to get a better price. ESPECIALLY at the hotels that the bus drops you off at. So I carried my bags downstairs and told her the room was very nice however I was going to look for something cheaper. She lowered her voice, there were other travelers in the lobby, “ok for you” she looked around “8$, don’t tell anyone”. We took it. We dropped our bags on our way to grab dinner and see what Dalat had to offer. On the way out we were stopped by the “Easy Riders” they are a group of Vietnamese motorcycle tour guides. They offered tours ranging from Dalat city tours of major attractions, all the way to 5 day tours to Hanoi. Travis was ready to book a tour but I again, not one to buy something under pressure, wanted to wait and see what else was offered. I declined but told Travis to go ahead if he wanted. We went to dinner and walked to the market. We found to westerners in a bakery, the first we had seen, and ask where the “Westerners” hang out in town. They told us two streets over they had seen some others in a restaurant. On our way to investigate we passed several activity agents and began comparing tours and prices. The tours offered were: city tour, a few mountain biking tours, trekking tours, and a waterfall abseiling tour. I was sold on abseiling and as I negotiated the price down from $25 per person I was told that if there was a bigger group the price would be cheaper. Right then a couple walked in. “Hi, my name is Tim” as I extended my hand “wanna go abseiling tomorrow?” I asked them. “Actually that’s what we are here to check about” he replied. The agent agreed to $20 per person but insisted on 18$ and he finally gave in! We asked our agent where we could find other westerners and he told us at Peace Hotel/Café and pointed us to it. Sure enough there were a few inside drinking coffee and checking emails. It was cute lil café and they had free wifi so I was sold. I asked how much rooms were and she showed me upstairs to show me room. She also started at 10$ but when I told her we only paid 8$ for our room she agreed to the same. The benefit was that their free breakfast was actually breakfast and not a piece of bread like our hotel! We should have checked the menu before checking in. We recruited one more guy, Dan, at Peace to go on our abseiling tour. We were able to get our tour guide to pick us up early in the morning (9.18.08) so we could transfer to Peace. We dropped our bags and off we went on our tour. We had three guides; one spoke really good English (main guide) and taught us a Vietnamese song on the way: “Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh”. When we arrived we had the option of walking down to the first waterfall or taking a “rollercoaster” for an additional fee of 25,000 VND. I opted for the rollercoaster. It was a one or two seater cart on a railing. I was instructed on how to use the hand break as the attendant gave me a shove down the track. It was SICK!!! And a lil scary. (www.youtube.com/timlara ) Half way down there was cart stopped on the track “Stop STOP!!” they yelled. The only problem was I had my camera in my hands making a video and my foot was holding the break wide open! I dropped the camera and gave the break a pull, giving myself whiplash! They were working on the railing but moved the cart and let me continue down. Classic Southeast Asia for ya! At the bottom Travis, Dan and I joined the couple that opted to walk down, with huge grins explaining that they should have definitely taken the coaster! Our guide allowed us to pause for photo opts with the first waterfall and then we began our trek. Our first stop was a 15 foot wall where the second guide (ropes guide) gave us our harnesses, secured the lines and showed us how to tie into them. For the remainder of the tour the main guide simply took pictures and explained what we would be doing along the way. The third guide (grunt guide) didn’t speak English and was responsible for carrying the equipment and doing any other jobs the first two didn’t want to. At our first stop the ropes guide had us tie in and abseil twice; making sure everyone knew what they were doing. They also had us practice falling against the rocks flat, once on our front and once on our back, and getting back to our feet. These made for great photos. We trekked for another 5 minutes and came to an amazing overlook which was also our next abseil. This one was about 60 feet. Another 10 minute trek and we were given life jackets. We had to jump 20 down into the water below and then continue down the river to our next abseil. The water was freezing and the air temp was about 70. They made the grunt guide jump first; we followed, while the rope and main guides took the dry path! Our next abseil was about a 30 foot face and paused for lunch after we completed it. The main guide cut up local fruits and vegetables to go with the large bag of baguettes. Peanut butter or butter were our choice for toppings. After getting our fill we were directed to continue down the river. I noticed the rope and main guides were again taking another (dry) trail and I asked if I could go that way, not wanting to get back in the freezing water after having just finally warmed back up. They agreed but as soon as the others tried jumping on the ban wagon they insisted we get wet. And for good cause, the next part of our trip was the waterfall slide! Here was a small waterfall with smooth rocks that you literally lay down and slide down the waterfall (www.youtube.com/timlara) We all went twice; then they started telling us to go head first. I was out on that plan but Travis and one other went for it. He later said it hurt his back. We continued down the river and came to our last abseil; a gushing 50 foot waterfall. The first 15-20 feet were slippery as ice and the flowing water made it impossible to see your foot placement. As soon as we were ¾ of the way down main guide started yelling to stop. He motioned with his hands to let go and fall backwards into the water. Naturally your mind tells you this isn’t a good idea but I said “F” it and went for it. After a 15 foot free fall into a back slap I wished I had worn my lifejacket! Again we all went a second time. On Travis’ second turn the rope guide suggested that Travis and I go at the same time, no safety line, just both of us abseiling. Normally there is one line you use to abseil and one safety line that the rope guide holds to ensure you don’t fall should you let go of your line. I wondered how safe it was as Travis instantly said yes! (www.youtube.com/timlara) Again we went for the back slap drop. We regrouped and headed down trial until we reached the last part of our tour; a 40 foot jump into the water below. Actually there was the option of a 30 foot jump from a lower ledge, which our grunt guide opted for. I looked to judge the higher jump, once…. Twice… three times. I wasn’t sure I could make it out far enough to clear the lower ledge. “Is it safe” we asked. “yes safe, no one has died yet” the main guide replied. This was his token response to our safety concerns “how deep?” I asked. “deep enough, I don’t know, no one has die yet” we tried talking the grunt guide into going from the top ledge and he refused. No else was willing to go for it, they all said they would take the lower ledge. I took one more look, and went over my foot placements in slow motion three times. Then handed over my camera, took a running start and L_A_U_N_C_H_E_D out! My arms burned on impact and I hit the sandy bottom at the bottom of the river. Deep enough my ass, I thought to myself. My bravery inspired the others, Travis hesitated but after I called him a sissy (3 times) he went for it. Dan stalled even more. The couple decided for the lower ledge. We later found out that the tour guide had previously lost his footing while attempting the higher jump, hit the lower ledge, split his head and almost died. This is why he refused to jump from it! We trekked out of the woods and were picked up by a van and escorted back to our hotels.
We made plans to meet back at the Peace Café for dinner, drinks and share photos. I made an arrangement with the owner of the hotel that she would take 1$ off the price of our room for every person I got to stay at the hotel. I also got free dinner because I got everyone to eat dinner there. I got a call from Minirose one of the CS’ers I contacted in Dalat, she was on her way to meet us at the Café. She had a friend with her and the two girls suggested that we take a walk thru the markets and town. After a quick walk we came across tandem bicycles and decided to go for a ride. I took Minirose and Travis took her friend. They showed us the university they attend and other sites around the city. Returning to the hotel I realized there wasn’t anything else I wanted to do in Dalat, so I told Travis I would be leaving in the morning for Nha Trang. We decided to stay and do a moto bike tour of the city the following day.