Gettin Muddy

(9.28.08 9:33am Room 305 Noble House, Cat Ba Island, Vietnam)
(9.19.08) At 7am I was picked up by a small bus headed to Nha Trang. I thought I would catch up on some sleep but bumpy windy roads ensured that it would be impossible. I had again grabbed the back row on the bus so I could lie completely down across the 6 seats. Most people don’t like sitting in the back of the bus because it’s too bumpy. On this leg of my journey I wish I had followed the crowd. Twice I bounced completely out of my seat and hit my head on the ceiling of the bus!!! As we neared Nha Trang the landscaped changed from mountains to beaches and shore lines. I called Lisanne my CS host when I got off the bus and she had her room mate, Gabe, meet me at the dive shop they worked at show me back to the their house. Lisanne is originally from Holland but had been traveling for about 6 mix months in Vietnam. She came to Nha Trang with Gab, who she met in Hanoi and they both ended up taking jobs at the Scuba Zone in trade from getting their Dive Master Certifications. They both had Vietnamese boyfriend/girlfriends that also worked at the dive shop. Lisanne had only been in Nha Trang for about a month and had hosted couch surfers for almost the whole time as she was the only host in Nha Trang. She gave me a tour of her house and showed me the hand drawn map of Nha Trang that she had made for CS’ers. It had her favorite restaurants, bars, internet cafes and her house on it. She was an amazing host!!! We made plans to have dinner and I left to explore the town. Not finding much more than restaurants and bars, I made my way to the internet café to play on the internet. I stopped and had photos made for postcards and filled them out at home. I was surprised to find that stamps for international post cards were 10,000VND which is about .75 USD which isn’t really expensive for western standards but with the cost of printing the pics made the postcards more expensive than my breakfast!
I joined Lisanne and her boyfriend Sea for noodles and then went to the Scuba Zone to talk to Gabe about diving in the morning. They offered two dives, lunch and boat ride for $40 but after looking through Gabes pictures I decided I would save my money and dive back at Maui for free!! Nha Trang is the best spot for diving in Vietnam but that doesn’t mean that Vietnam is a diving hot spot. There are a lot of fish and small creatures but no sharks, big fish, rays, ect.
I asked Sea if he wanted to join me for some kayaking the next morning and he agreed. We decided not to set a time but just figure it out when we woke up. In the morning (9.20.08) I didn’t see him so went for breakfast and scouted out the kayak rentals. The only place I found was at a beach front upscale resort and charged 6$ an hour!! I explained that I wanted it for the day and he said it was still $6/hr. That is REALLY expensive for Vietnam so I declined. I stopped and bought some paintings for gifts on the way home. They are black water color on white silk. Finding nothing to do in Nha Trang I told Lisanne I would be leaving later that night. She let me know that Travis was on his way and would arrive at 1pm. My bus was at 7pm so Travis and I decided to rent a moto bike and go to the mud baths/hot springs. The price was 80,000 for public baths or 150,000 VND for a “private bath” we were confused that they even asked us if we wanted a private bath so we laughed and told them the public would be just fine. The experience started with a hot spring water shower. Then the attendant led us to our mud bath and opened the pipe to let the “Mud” flow. I expected thick mud, but it ended up being thin water like silt. Either way we spent about 15 soaking it up. The attendant turned our pipe off when the tub was only 1/8 of the way filled so we turned it back on and filled our tub half way. Next you were suppose to sun bath and let the mud dry on your skin, but the overcast weather made that impossible so we headed back to the shower. From the shower we were directed to the High presser hot spring water; two walls with about 50 small holes spraying stinging streams of hot spring water. The next phase was a hot spring water bath. They gave Travis and I a heart shaped tub, it was special. After 15 in the tub and many strange looks, we had been getting the whole time; we headed for the pool which was again full of spring water. It was getting late so we took off back to Lisannes. I packed and we went for dinner, I was cutting it really close so Travis agreed to let me use the moto bike to ride to bus stop. I arrived right after the bus left so they directed me to the second stop. I called Travis and let him know I got the bus and that the moto bike was at the second bus station. As I rode away on the bus I realized I left my board shorts hanging on the moto and I left my Hawaii drivers license at the moto bike shop as a deposit. I called Travis again and asked him to grab them for me. I was sure we’d see each other again on the way.

"No one has died, yet"

(9.26.08 Good Bar. Cat Ba Island, Vietnam)

(9.17.08)We stepped off the bus into light rains and about 65 degree temperature in Dalat! It felt amazing, coming from the 100+ humid temperatures of Southeast Asia. We were dropped off at a hotel and walked inside to check it out. The rooms were only 10$ for two and included breakfast, wifi and hot water. A/C wasn’t needed. Travis was ready to check in, as was I, however on principle you have to at least say no and try to get a better price. ESPECIALLY at the hotels that the bus drops you off at. So I carried my bags downstairs and told her the room was very nice however I was going to look for something cheaper. She lowered her voice, there were other travelers in the lobby, “ok for you” she looked around “8$, don’t tell anyone”. We took it. We dropped our bags on our way to grab dinner and see what Dalat had to offer. On the way out we were stopped by the “Easy Riders” they are a group of Vietnamese motorcycle tour guides. They offered tours ranging from Dalat city tours of major attractions, all the way to 5 day tours to Hanoi. Travis was ready to book a tour but I again, not one to buy something under pressure, wanted to wait and see what else was offered. I declined but told Travis to go ahead if he wanted. We went to dinner and walked to the market. We found to westerners in a bakery, the first we had seen, and ask where the “Westerners” hang out in town. They told us two streets over they had seen some others in a restaurant. On our way to investigate we passed several activity agents and began comparing tours and prices. The tours offered were: city tour, a few mountain biking tours, trekking tours, and a waterfall abseiling tour. I was sold on abseiling and as I negotiated the price down from $25 per person I was told that if there was a bigger group the price would be cheaper. Right then a couple walked in. “Hi, my name is Tim” as I extended my hand “wanna go abseiling tomorrow?” I asked them. “Actually that’s what we are here to check about” he replied. The agent agreed to $20 per person but insisted on 18$ and he finally gave in! We asked our agent where we could find other westerners and he told us at Peace Hotel/Café and pointed us to it. Sure enough there were a few inside drinking coffee and checking emails. It was cute lil café and they had free wifi so I was sold. I asked how much rooms were and she showed me upstairs to show me room. She also started at 10$ but when I told her we only paid 8$ for our room she agreed to the same. The benefit was that their free breakfast was actually breakfast and not a piece of bread like our hotel! We should have checked the menu before checking in. We recruited one more guy, Dan, at Peace to go on our abseiling tour. We were able to get our tour guide to pick us up early in the morning (9.18.08) so we could transfer to Peace. We dropped our bags and off we went on our tour. We had three guides; one spoke really good English (main guide) and taught us a Vietnamese song on the way: “Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh”. When we arrived we had the option of walking down to the first waterfall or taking a “rollercoaster” for an additional fee of 25,000 VND. I opted for the rollercoaster. It was a one or two seater cart on a railing. I was instructed on how to use the hand break as the attendant gave me a shove down the track. It was SICK!!! And a lil scary. (www.youtube.com/timlara ) Half way down there was cart stopped on the track “Stop STOP!!” they yelled. The only problem was I had my camera in my hands making a video and my foot was holding the break wide open! I dropped the camera and gave the break a pull, giving myself whiplash! They were working on the railing but moved the cart and let me continue down. Classic Southeast Asia for ya! At the bottom Travis, Dan and I joined the couple that opted to walk down, with huge grins explaining that they should have definitely taken the coaster! Our guide allowed us to pause for photo opts with the first waterfall and then we began our trek. Our first stop was a 15 foot wall where the second guide (ropes guide) gave us our harnesses, secured the lines and showed us how to tie into them. For the remainder of the tour the main guide simply took pictures and explained what we would be doing along the way. The third guide (grunt guide) didn’t speak English and was responsible for carrying the equipment and doing any other jobs the first two didn’t want to. At our first stop the ropes guide had us tie in and abseil twice; making sure everyone knew what they were doing. They also had us practice falling against the rocks flat, once on our front and once on our back, and getting back to our feet. These made for great photos. We trekked for another 5 minutes and came to an amazing overlook which was also our next abseil. This one was about 60 feet. Another 10 minute trek and we were given life jackets. We had to jump 20 down into the water below and then continue down the river to our next abseil. The water was freezing and the air temp was about 70. They made the grunt guide jump first; we followed, while the rope and main guides took the dry path! Our next abseil was about a 30 foot face and paused for lunch after we completed it. The main guide cut up local fruits and vegetables to go with the large bag of baguettes. Peanut butter or butter were our choice for toppings. After getting our fill we were directed to continue down the river. I noticed the rope and main guides were again taking another (dry) trail and I asked if I could go that way, not wanting to get back in the freezing water after having just finally warmed back up. They agreed but as soon as the others tried jumping on the ban wagon they insisted we get wet. And for good cause, the next part of our trip was the waterfall slide! Here was a small waterfall with smooth rocks that you literally lay down and slide down the waterfall (www.youtube.com/timlara) We all went twice; then they started telling us to go head first. I was out on that plan but Travis and one other went for it. He later said it hurt his back. We continued down the river and came to our last abseil; a gushing 50 foot waterfall. The first 15-20 feet were slippery as ice and the flowing water made it impossible to see your foot placement. As soon as we were ¾ of the way down main guide started yelling to stop. He motioned with his hands to let go and fall backwards into the water. Naturally your mind tells you this isn’t a good idea but I said “F” it and went for it. After a 15 foot free fall into a back slap I wished I had worn my lifejacket! Again we all went a second time. On Travis’ second turn the rope guide suggested that Travis and I go at the same time, no safety line, just both of us abseiling. Normally there is one line you use to abseil and one safety line that the rope guide holds to ensure you don’t fall should you let go of your line. I wondered how safe it was as Travis instantly said yes! (www.youtube.com/timlara) Again we went for the back slap drop. We regrouped and headed down trial until we reached the last part of our tour; a 40 foot jump into the water below. Actually there was the option of a 30 foot jump from a lower ledge, which our grunt guide opted for. I looked to judge the higher jump, once…. Twice… three times. I wasn’t sure I could make it out far enough to clear the lower ledge. “Is it safe” we asked. “yes safe, no one has died yet” the main guide replied. This was his token response to our safety concerns “how deep?” I asked. “deep enough, I don’t know, no one has die yet” we tried talking the grunt guide into going from the top ledge and he refused. No else was willing to go for it, they all said they would take the lower ledge. I took one more look, and went over my foot placements in slow motion three times. Then handed over my camera, took a running start and L_A_U_N_C_H_E_D out! My arms burned on impact and I hit the sandy bottom at the bottom of the river. Deep enough my ass, I thought to myself. My bravery inspired the others, Travis hesitated but after I called him a sissy (3 times) he went for it. Dan stalled even more. The couple decided for the lower ledge. We later found out that the tour guide had previously lost his footing while attempting the higher jump, hit the lower ledge, split his head and almost died. This is why he refused to jump from it! We trekked out of the woods and were picked up by a van and escorted back to our hotels.
We made plans to meet back at the Peace Café for dinner, drinks and share photos. I made an arrangement with the owner of the hotel that she would take 1$ off the price of our room for every person I got to stay at the hotel. I also got free dinner because I got everyone to eat dinner there. I got a call from Minirose one of the CS’ers I contacted in Dalat, she was on her way to meet us at the Café. She had a friend with her and the two girls suggested that we take a walk thru the markets and town. After a quick walk we came across tandem bicycles and decided to go for a ride. I took Minirose and Travis took her friend. They showed us the university they attend and other sites around the city. Returning to the hotel I realized there wasn’t anything else I wanted to do in Dalat, so I told Travis I would be leaving in the morning for Nha Trang. We decided to stay and do a moto bike tour of the city the following day.

"Up to you"

(9.26.08 Bus Station. Hanoi, Vietnam 9am)
Next morning (9.16.08) I woke up, said goodbye to Bill and Janina and left to meet Travis for breakfast before our bus. When the bus arrived I realized I didn’t have my tickets. I searched and re-searched my bags but they weren’t there. I called Bill and he didn’t see them at the house either. Travis said he would try to hold the bus and I caught a moto back to the house to search for my tickets. As we pulled away, so did the bus! Back at the dungeon I found my tickets and grabbed a moto back to the office. I was able to find another bus to Mui Ne but I had to eat the cost of my original ticket. I arrived to Mui Ne about one hour after Travis. Travis had already found a guest house on the beach for 10 USD so I spent the next half hour trying to find it. We rented a moto bike took off North towards the town of Mui Ne to explore. Every once in a while we would pull down an alley to get a glimpse of the shore line and see what we had passed and where were heading. We made it thru town and down the only major road heading north. We eventually came to some sand dunes and decided to check it out. Travis had heard from some other travelers that they went sledding down sand dunes in Mui Ne. He was told that children would come and let you use their sleds for a fee. Soon three children came running up, they pleaded “mister, mister, you go sled. You use my sled” “how much” I replied as we pointed and asked where the BIG hill was. “follow me!!” they enthusiastically answered, realizing they had just made sale. “How much?” I inquired again. “up to you” in an innocent, playful voice they returned. “Really? It’s up to me? Soooo 500 VND (3 cents USD) per slide?” I jokingly asked to test the water. Travis had already told me that his friends paid about 2000 VND per slide. “ok, up to you” they again replied in the most childlike, innocent, playful voice. They had me convinced; I really thought they didn’t care about money. For the first time I felt as if they were simply there to play and if they could make a little bit of money and meet some tourist that was a bonus. But I asked again just to be sure “ok 500 Dong” again the same answer “Ok, up to you. you sled. you use MY sled, ok mister?” they continued to badger as we walked along and I continued to try to make small talk; “what’s your name?”, “how old are you”…they would answer “Doa” and then quickly revert back to “ok if you go you go with me first, OK?” I would simply ask another question. “and what’s your name?” “Kim... you use my sled second, ok mister” “Kim?” I inquired. “Tim” as I pointed to myself. Kim smiled big but Doa wasn’t impressed and he again cut me off “mister you use my sled first, ok?” “No, No, No I go with Kim first” I teased him. “Ok, ok, you go with me second??” as he attempted to grab and carry my bag for me. I told him I would but I could handle my bag. Doa appeared to be around 7 years old would have been struggling to carry my bag which now had two helmets and sets of slippahs strapped to the outside. Also by this time in my travels I had learned nothing is for free. I looked across the dune to Travis who was about 50 yards away and being trailed by three other kids, I now had 5 kids myself. Every time I took a picture Kim would reach for my camera “I take photo, I take photo”. “no its ok, thank you” replied. “I take photo, of you” came back and it worked. I did want some photos of me. I handed her the camera, and she began to shoot, she even set the shots up for. “you stand over here” she pointed. One of the small children was now dragging my bag since I set it down to have my photo taken. I explained to Kim that I would jump and I wanted her take a picture. She spoke pretty good English and understood what I was going for. On just her third attempt she nailed the “jump shot”. Now I convinced them to jump. All five of the lined up “Ok, 1…2….3… jump” I counted down. We tried several times but they were all out of sync. I pulled some of the small ones out of shot and tried again. Again it didn’t turn out. I finally got down to two kids and was successful at getting a “jump shot” of them. The small child again grabbed by bag as we walked away and I took from him. Kim instantly grabbed it from me. She was about 12 and the largest of the kids so I decided to let her take it. I was already gonna have to pay her for taking pictures and using her sled so I figured I would let her carry my bag as well. When as we approached the “Big One” Travis came flying down. I was sold, I had to try it. I sprinted for the top and the kids gave chase. At the top the set the sled down and prepared it for me. I yelled to Kim at the bottom to make a video for me. “Hey Travis, make sure its on video for me” Kim cut me off as she pulled away from Travis “I got it!!!” I was directed to sit down and shown and how to hold the sled. Then they all began to push me. Five kids screamed and cheered as they got me up to speed and then let me go. It was a short but fast run and it was actually pretty cool. Doa came running down the hill “ok you go with me again” “no I go with Kim this time” I replied. Travis took the camera and we headed to the top for another run. This time was far less exciting than the first. Only two kids pushed to get me going and the speed just wasn’t there. I decided I needed Doa’s expertise if I were gonna have a good run and solicited him to take me up again. Travis had gone twice and was finished so I decided I was done too. When we let them know we were done they told us to pay them. “no we’ll pay when we get back done to the road” Travis assured them “NO!!!! you pay now!! There are many kids down there, if you pay there they will want money too” they all replied. It made sense so we decided we would pay up. By this time our crowd had grown to about 10 children however I had only used the services of Kim and Doa and Travis had used two kids as well. I pulled out 2000 dong and they all screamed and whined “noooooooo, not enough! We carried you bag… we took pictures… you go three times…noooooo” I reminded them they agreed to 500 Dong. Again they all whined, screamed and cried. “not enough, not enough, 20,000! That one, that one” as they pointed into my wallet and tried to snatch money! One girl, about 15 years old, had just arrived and was brokering the deal for the kids. I agreed to pay 20,000 for Kim and Doa to split and as I pulled it out of my wallet she snatched it and ran away. Kim’s eyes instantly teared up and bloodshot red. “WHY YOU PAY HER!! SHE DIDN’T DO ANYTHING FOR YOU!!!! YOU PAY ME!!!” she demanded. She was literally crying! The scene was getting bad and Travis told me to just start walking to the road. “this is all part of their act” he assured me. I could simply ignore Kim and doa’s cries so I tried to explain that the money was for them, that she stole it, I hadn’t paid her. Kim wasn’t hearing it, she angrily snapped back “YOU PAID HER, WHY!?!??! I carried your bag, I took pics, you used my sled” she whined. I became convinced it was all for show and got more firm. “You need to talk to her, don’t bother me about your money, she has it, go talk to her” They were really intense and forceful. I decided I had to get this on film. I told Travis I was gonna make a video and as soon as I pointed the camera there was complete silence. They stopped whining and covered their faces with their sleds. They didn’t want me to record THIS side of them. Earlier it was all fun and games and they lined up have their pictures taken, but now it was another story. My camera had just become my greatest asset. Every time one would approach I would just say “video” and point the camera. It was like garlic to a vampire, they recoiled back! Travis dubbed it the “Show me the money” video. (see www.youtube.com/timlara ) They retreated and we rode our motorbike back to the beachy resort strip of Mui Ne. Next afternoon (9.17.08) we caught a bus for Dalat!

Angkor Wat to Vietnam...

(11pm The Dungeon. Saigon Vietnam)
I set my alarm for 4:15 and went to bed at around 2am. The girls were suppose to be up at 4am as our Tuk Tuk was picking us up at 430am. When my alarm went off the girls were still asleep but quickly woke up and took over the bathroom. At 4:29am they told me to get out of bed as they rushed from the bathroom right out the door. Nih our Tuk Tuk driver showed up at 4:35 am and informed us that we would have to go with his brother since his Tuk Tuk had broken down the night before. His brother hardly spoke English so we stopped him a mile down the road and made sure we were all on the same page as far as where he would be taking us, for how long and how much it would cost us. We were the second vehicle thru the payment office and soon arrived to Angkor Wat under the pitch black night sky. The cars poured in. We thought by going this early we would be able to get some alone time and good pics with the temples, but we were dead wrong. The girls rushed into the temple as I set up my camera to take some photos while the sun rose. People hurried by me in the hundreds. The girls yelled for to come and I hollered back “we’ll just meet up later”. After taking a series of photos I wondered inside what I thought was the temple, it turned out I had only been shooting the temple gate and outer walls! Now inside the walls I hurried into the temple. The first thing I noticed was that all the statues of Buddha had been either decapitated or their faces had been removed? I continued around taking pics and I came across a lil old lady sitting by the active temple of active wat selling incense. I pointed at my camera asking if I could take a picture of her and she replied “one daaaaalllllar”, I hardly understood her and I again motioned with my camera. After repeating herself I realized she was asking for money. I gave her a dollar and took several stunning photos of her. On my way out of Angkor Wat I began looking for the girls and soon saw them about 150 yards away, quickly approaching the out wall. I sprinted after them yeller “Heeeela”! Finally she heard me and stopped. I honestly didn’t think I was gonna be able to find them in the hoards of people.
The girls and I were clearly on different agenda’s as far as the temples went. They hurried thru temple after temple as I stopped and took several pictures before even making it through the front entrance. After each temple we would meet up again over by the tuk tuk’s. I asked a tour guide why none of the faces remained and he informed me that most of them had been stolen while the country was in turmoil. He also told me that the temples were built in about 1000a.d. At one of the temples I stumbled across four young student monks. I asked if I could take a few photographs and one of them agreed. His name was Skyli. He was a former tuk tuk driver that was going to school to become a monk. His parents could afford to send him to school so this was his only other choice. He said he wanted to join the army to support his country but I couldn’t help wonder if it was just once again it was his only option?
On the way into and out of most temples there were groups of children trying to sell all sorts of things: clothes, souvenirs, food, drinks, etc. Except rather they were fierce sales people. “mister, mister. You buy! You buy!” or “cold drink, you buy, cold drink?”, I would quickly reply “ak tay a khun” which means no thank you in Khmer (Cambodian) and they would say “ok but if you buy, you buy from me, OK?” I did end up buying quit a few things from them: bottles of water, music instruments, pants, and shirt. I’m a sucker, the Israeli girls said. But they were the ones telling them to go ask Tim. It made saying “No” that much harder when they know your name. “mister Teem, mister teem” as the pulled on my arm. I did make the mistake of buying from the wrong girl one time and will never make that mistake again. Apparently which ever kid talks to you first has dibs on you. Well one girl asked me on the way into a temple to buy pants and I said no, but on the way out I bought some from another lil girl. The first girl got very upset and followed me. “why you don’t buy from me?”…”I saw you first”…”buy from me too”…”you’re not a nice man”. So lesson learned.
It was now about 12:30 and we had visited 4 temples and only had one remaining, which we were supposed to take in sunset from. One of the girls wanted to take a nap for 5 hours and then watch the sunset, but I was definitely not sitting out there for 5 more hours. It was completely grey sky and even raining off and on. There hadn’t been a sunrise and there definitely wasn’t going to be a sunset. Also by this time I had grow irritated by the speed that the girls mad their way through the temples and remember exactly why it is that I travel by myself: I don’t have to worry about what anyone else wants to do or how. I just do what I want. So we walked up the hill and we were we arrived at ________ we were the only people there. We climbed the top of the temple and views were spectacular!!!!! You could see 360 degrees, lakes to one side, the city to another and Angkor Wat poking out of the forest. We sat up top for about 20 minutes, taking in the views and cooling off in the wind. The girls yelled to me from the bottom as they made their way out the gate. I climbed down, took some pictures and then jogged down the hill after them.
Returning to the guest house, I began downloading the 400 pictures I had taken and jumped in the shower. When I got out, they asked me if I were going to go down stairs to use the lobby internet. “no” I replied. They informed me that they had wanted to take showers and I told them to go ahead. “Well can you just leave for about 30 minutes, we want to be able to get dressed and stuff”. Now I had just got back from walking and sweating for about 8 hours, had taken a hot shower, and was lying in bed in my air conditioned room. The last thing I wanted to do was go down to a hot, dusty lobby! I told them to take showers and get dressed in the bathroom like normal people; I just did it without any problems. As I began to brush my teeth. They walked out the door as they said that they would me alone for two hours but wanted about 30 minutes in the room when they got back. I downloaded my pics, updated the blog, added the ads to the blog and checked emails. Megan, one of the California girls I met in Chiang Mai and watch the Thai boxing with, wrote me a message telling me they were in Siem Reap and invited me to dinner at their guest house. I got dressed and took a cab over there. When I arrived, Vanessa was gone and Megan was in the shower so I found two cute girls from Portugal in the downstairs restaurant to sit and chat with. The girls came down later and at dinner together with our new friends. After dinner we went to the night market and I educated the girls on how to get the best bargain their. The idea was to walk completely thru one time without buying ANYTHING, just check prices of the items you like. Ask again and again for the price of the same item and then make your way back thru a second time and make your purchases. Most of the vendors had the same products. Megan didn’t make it past the first booth before buying a headband and not only that, but convincing me to buy one as well!!! As we walked away I told her she wasn’t doing so well on the “don’t buy anything yet” program. After shopping and drinks at the Island bar I headed back to the guest house around 11pm. Next morning we woke up at 6 am were picked up by the bus, we said our brief goodbyes and took off on separate buses. Me for Phnom Penh while they headed Vietnam.
For the first leg of the bus ride I slept but at the lunch stop I met cute young women from Australia. Returning to the bus I asked the Khmer guys sitting next to her if he would switch seats with, he did. We spent the next few hours chatting it up. She was taking the bus all the way thru to Ho Chi Minh. Turns out she was on CS as well and was staying with Tim, a CS’er in the city. We exchanged info and made plans to meet in the city when I arrived a few days later. When I arrived in Phnom Penh 6 hours later Sonja, a CS’er picked me up at the bus station and we went for lunch. We ate at Green Vespa, a Irish Pub right by the river. When I went inside to use the toilet a monkey climbd down from the roof and stole the remainder of my breakfast. She told me the main things to do in Siem Reap were the S-21 Museum, The Killing Fields and some Wat (temple). I decided I would go to the museum that day and the killing fields the following day before catching a bus to Vietnam. Sonja took me to a guest house in the backpacker’s district and dropped me off. 3$ a night with common bathroom or 5$ us with a bathroom, I opted for the 3$ room. My visit at the S-21 museum started with an hour film about the Khmer Rouge and what exactly had taken place at S-21, Killing Fields, Phnom Penh and Cambodia during the 70’s. S-21, former school turned military prison, housed those who were thought to be conspirators against Khmer Rouge. They tortured, and forced to give false confessions. There was no medical facility and the conditions were atrocious. Many starved to death and the remainder later met their death at the Killing Fields. To learn more: www.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tuol_Sleng_Genocide_Museum
It was a chilling experience and I had never even heard of the Cambodia Genocides prior to my visit.
I returned home my guest house and Sonja picked me up for the night market and dinner. On our way out there was fight between a Khmer (Cambodian) and a Nigerian guy. The Nigerian was lying on the ground, beaten pretty badly. The Khmer had broken a guitar over him and was still wildly swinging the handle. I asked Sonja to hold my camera as I walked back to try to bring peace to the situation. Someone beat me to it and it looked as if everything was going to be ok. Sonja told the Nigerian deserved, apparently he’s always high/drunk and groping women and starting trouble. The night market was a completely local event and we were the only westerners there. We quickly made or way thru the small market of clothes and carnival games and then headed back to the back packing district. On our way back in to the guest house we came we were stopped a large crowd blocking the road. The same Khmer was standing along the side of the road bleeding really badly and there were large puddles of blood everywhere. During our walk at the market I found out that Cambodia is a very unstable country and most people carry knifes and guns. I couldn’t help but think, that might have been good info for Sonja to tell me before she almost let me break up a fight! We later found out that the Khmer got into a fight with some French guys and was cut by the bottles he was attempting to use as a weapon. We went to a guest house to meet some German girls I had acquainted myself with earlier. There were four English kids, and two other Americans, Sonja and the two German girls. We talked about CS.com, religion and politics late into the night. I even got an opportunity to finally eat some bugs! I ate a beatle, and it was DISCUSTING! Leaving some blanks in the story, I’ll just say that I went to bed at 4 am.
Next morning I woke up at 6:30 am and told my motorbike driver that we should sleep in and go to the killing fields at 8am. He agreed. A half hour motorbike ride got me to the Killing Fields, and I walked around for 15 minutes and returned to the guest house. I was a little disappointed that there wasn’t more to be seen. It literally consisted of a few acres of land that were once, and partially still are mass graves from the genocide. Large pits only remain and there is a large monument in the middle to those who perished. The monument is a pillar of skulls in glass case stretching upwards into the sky.
It was 10:30 when we made it back to the guest house and I bought an 11:30 bus ticket for Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. I slept for the entire way with the exception of having to get off at the border. At the border I met a Canadian who was living in China and suggested I go to China after Hanoi and fly out of Hong Kong instead of Hanoi back to Bangkok. He said it would be much cheaper even with the extra travel expense to China. Its food for thought! I had two couches lined up in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh): Tim, a traveling journalist’s house and Natasha, the Vietnam CS ambassador’s house. Tim had several other CS’ers staying but there was room on the floor and he lived right in the city. Natasha had a bed for me however she lived about 20 min out of the city. I opted for Tim’s house and called him from the bus station. I took a motorbike for 2$ to his house and the driver tried to only give me back half my change from a USD 10 bill in Dong (Vietnam Currency) Bill, one of the people staying at Tim’s house told me I was being robbed and I got more money back.. When I walked inside I met Tim, Simon and Pascal from Quebec, Erika and David who also lived there and Inbal a friend of Tim’s who was visiting. I hung out and check emails then we went to meet Jamie, the Australian I met on the bus, for dinner. She was also Couch surfing at Tim’s. At dinner I met Travis a Couch surfer from Texas who was staying at Natasha’s.
Simon, Jamie and myself slept on a full size mat on the floor, as the other couches and beds were already spoken for. The next morning we woke up at 6am and went for breakfast. Simon and Pascal caught their bus to their next destination while Jamie took a ½ tour of the tunnels. This left me and Travis, who was waiting for his bus to the Mekong. He got on the bus and two minutes later he got back off! He said he couldn’t handle all the tourist. He told me about the Easy Riders motorcycle tours in Vietnam and we decide to go riding together. We sat and went over possible itineraries and ended up buying “open bus tickets”. They allow us to go from Saigon to Hanoi with 8 stops along the way for about 53$ USD! Tim completely changed my travel plans by showing me an article about surfing in Vietnam. I decided I wanted to check out some of the surf breaks up the coast. I had couches lined up for 3 places already but put in request for two more along the way. Travis and I did some shopping and then went to get pedi’s and mani’s. Ok I did while he got a massage. I was actually really disappointed with them; I was expecting a hand and foot massage as well but ended up just getting my nails done. They didn’t even exfoliate my hands or feet!! At 2pm we met Jamie and went to the Market on our way to a Museum, which ended up being closed. I did a lil more shopping before catching motorbike back to Tim’s while Travis and Jamie walked back. We all went for dinner and I met Janina, a new couch surfer to the house. Dinner was hilarious at the non English speaking vietmanese restaurant. They kept bring out food we didn’t order, that didn’t taste good and we kept eating it! We paid the bill, half of which we didn’t order, nor eat. After dinner Janina and I walked for dessert but got distracted by a school where they were doing waltz lessons on an outside balcony. We tried to get in but the language barrier prevented us. After ice cream walked home and watched a movie with everyone and now are about to go to sleep. I have no idea where everyone is sleeping tonight but I’m about to claim stake and grab the mat on the ground!! A Hui Ho!

To Cambodia

(11:30pm Guest House in Siem Reap, Cambodia)
Shortly after our lunch break the bus pulled over. A Cambodian man, who I assumed worked for the bus company, gave the following to us: “The road to Siem Reap is VERY bad, it is dirt and there is no A/C on the next bus. So if it is not raining it will be very dusty, if it is raining the windows will be up and it will be very hot. You can take a cab and it will be much quicker and more enjoyable. Second we will now walk a quarter mile to get to the border, there will be many kids coming up to you. Some will try to hold an umbrella for you; others will simply beg for money, they are all pick pockets. Make sure all your valuables are in your bag and carry it in front of you. Ok now grab your belongings and make sure you leave nothing behind on the bus” This is how we were welcomed to Cambodia. We stepped off the bus into a dusty roadside market area. The guide took the first five of us to the border. The others came with other guides in small groups as well. On the other side we waited for a free bus which took us a few hundred yards down the road to a bus station/taxi zone. The Israeli girls were told a cab should be 800-1000b ($25-30 usd). I had heard $25-50 and our guide insisted that it would be $60 or 2000b. They use Thai Baht and USD in Cambodia. They have their own currency as well but like Laos it is very unstable. I learned after Laos that I didn’t need to exchange money for the local currency there nor Cambodia. As a matter of fact I got stuck with 668b worth or Kip (Laos money) because no money exchangers outside of Laos will take it. I eventually found someone in Bangkok that was heading to Laos and sold it to him for 600b. Ok so back to Cambodia. We walked inside to the window that said “TAXI” on it and asked how much. “2000b”, “no way, too much” we replied. “ok how much” he inquired. “800b” said Hila (one of the two Israeli girls, the other is Nita) “you’ll never find for this price.” He said, and we walked away. We decided to walk up the road and see what we could find. No keep in mind it’s raining, the streets are made of dirt and I’m wearing “locals” (for those not from Hawaii, locals are cheap rubber flip flops). As we walked I slung mud all over the back of my legs, shorts, shirt and bags. The guy from the Taxi zone chased us down. “OK 1500b”. “no thank you, 800b” we stood firm. “you’re crazy; you’ll never find this price. Gas cost more than that” he explained. We moved to 1000b. but still no luck. We told him we’d look around and he said good luck. He got on the back of a motorbike and followed us down the road. Every time we spoke to a taxi driver he came up and spoke in Cambodian to them and they raised their price to 1500b after several times of this happening over a quarter mile thru the mud we realized we were fucked. I told the girls we should sit and have food so he would leave. Only problem there was no restaurants. We got water and I left the girls and bags to find a driver. After several attempts I finally scored one for 1200b. I jumped in and told him to pick the girls up. When the girls and walked to the street with our bags the Stalker and a cop were talking to our driver. We were told he wasn’t a licensed cab and he couldn’t take us. The stalker then slipped the cop some money. Now we were being followed by the stalker on a motorbike and a second taxi with the cop sitting shotgun. I began to worry. Here we are in a poor, third world country being stalked by a mad taxi pimp and now the police. When we stopped at a corner the cop and stalker approached us. The cop explained we could not take an unlicensed cab. The stalker dropped to 1300b and I snapped back “For YOU, 1100b!!!! no more” “Ok I’m sorry, I’m sorry. 1200b, I’m sorry I’m sorry” as he dropped his head. After we got in the car he told us we had to go back to the Taxi station to do paper work. The cop got in the front seat and tried to assure us “It’s ok, I am police” in broken English as he pointed to the POLICE embroidered on his hat. The fact that he was trying to make me feel secure actually made me even more uneasy. The girls were afraid as well. The cab headed back the wrong direction and I pictured us being taken to a dark grimy room to be beaten, rapped and robbed. However, we did go back to the station and in 5 minutes were headed to Siem Reap. Our cab driver didn’t speak any English and listened to loud, whinny (Cambodian?) music the whole way. I reflected on the fact that we just spent 20 minutes walking in the mud haggling over a few dollars. The girls weren’t ready to laugh and said they’d feel ok once we got to siem reap. About 1 mile out of town the mud turned to nice fresh pavement. I felt cheated. If it stayed this nice I was going to be really upset that I didn’t take my bus. A few miles later it was back to dirt however and I was happy to be sitting shotgun in an A/C cab. About 30 minutes into the ride it began raining again, harder and harder. Soon we came to stop. Apparently a truck had gotten stuck in the mud and as cars tried to make their way around him, they were getting stuck too. The cars backed up and as renegade cab drivers tried to be hero’s they got stuck as well. It was a complete mess, and stand off situation as cars opposite directions blocked each other in. I asked if we should get out to help, using hand signs. He shook his head no. A few minutes later, seeing him roll his pants up, I took my shirt off and went to take a look. There were about 10 large supply trucks, 15 cars and 1 bus in front of us going the same direction. Cambodia truck drivers stood looking and a few cab drivers as well. One man was using a shovel. The rest watched. Off to the side a cab tried again to go but got stuck. Four Cambodian men and I tried to push it thru. He gained a few hundred feet, but was eventually blocked by stopped cars from the other direction. Seeing this another cab went for the same route. We again pushed, however there were two many people inside. I opened the door and told the 4 Japanese kids to get out if they wanted to get to siem reap. They listened. I then made my way to other cars and began open back doors “If you don’t want to spend the night here, get out and start helping” The Cambodian cabbies got a kick out of this. I don’t think they would have been able to tell their clients to get out, into shin high red clay/mud and push their own cab. More and more westerners began to get out. Soon we had about 40 people, Cambodian and foreigners working together. “Teem, Teem (Tim), this one, this one” one Cambodian man kept saying as he pulled me from cab to cab to push. I’m by no means a big man, but I was twice the size of most the Cambodians. There were three men, dress in designer jeans and dress shirts, standing on the floor board of their cabs, leaning out with the door open. “how’s it look” one asked as I walked back to my cab to check on the girls. I told him it was fucked but if more people would get out and help we might actually go somewhere. He responded something about me asking nicely and not using threats, as one of the others whined about the fact that he had expensive shoes on. “So take them off” as I walked to check on the girls and tell our cabbie to stay in the car so he could drive when we got things going instead of all the cars passing ours like they had been doing already. Making my way back to help one of the three men asked again, “do you think we’ll get through” angry that they were still sitting like sissy’s in their cars I fired back “not if you sit in your fucking car all night. If you get out and help like the rest of the men here, maybe. Look there are even women out here helping” now mind you, all three of these guys were 200+ and only one was fat. After working for 20 minutes I went to check on the girls and give them an update. This time, puzzled that the three men were STILL in their cars, I asked them where they were from. They hesitated and finally answered “Australia, why where are you from?” I cut him off “that’s funny I thought they had men in Australia, I’m from Hawaii, USA, where we work together as a family, as a group, as people for the better of all. Not selfishly sitting in our cars while everyone else does all the work” it just came out that way and I now realize that most Americans would probably sit in their cars too. I think we just truly are a lil different in Hawaii, or Maui at least. I kept walking because I realized that if stopped I was probably going to end up fighting one, or all three of these guys. When we got a few cars all the way thru, cars from the other side began coming our way. This just created another stalemate. Very frustrated that all our work had just been spoiled by the selfish of a few cabbies again, I began soliciting the help of some of the Cambodians. I used hand signals to explain that we need to be organized and allow three cars from one side, then three from the other. Eventually we got things going smoothly and created a lane for each way. Everyone was excited and many westerners and Cambodians alike thanked me for being the “sergeant” as one of them said. At this point I’d like to give a plug to the JAPANESE, French, Germans and Finland MEN that helped. Oh, ya and the two NYC women as well. Ok and I guess the one lone Australian (not part of the three, sissy’s) And of course the many Cambodians that finally started helping once they saw all the westerners getting dirty. After our car made it through we stopped and the cabbie and I ran back to help a cabbie whose car was stuck on the side. I saw the Japanese kids car and thanked them for helping. We took pictures and got back on the road. About 4 miles down the road 8 cabs pulled over in a small town so we could wash up and rinse the cars off. It was mini celebration and again people thanked me for organizing the effort. Now by this time my ego had taken over and I began to dream up stories of the Cambodians talking about “Teem” for years to come and the story of “Tim from Maui: saved the day” being passed from traveler to traveler across southeast Asia. To be fair, we probably would have spent the night there had I not got out and started making others help as well, but I don’t think any monuments will be built soon! Ok so back on the road this going well, but every once in a while hitting very slick muddy sections where cabs, including ours, spun out of control as if on ice. Soon we were stopped again. There was another truck off to the side and cars being stuck in the mud. No gridlock yet so we quickly pushed the cars thru and as our car made it, a few cars began to back up from the other direction. As we drove away I wondered how long before complete mayhem at this spot as well? 6 hours after we left we completed what was suppose to be a 3-4 hour journey. Our cabbie dropped us with the rest of westerners way outside of town where there were Tuk Tuk drivers waiting to take advantage of us. I called Phansy, a Cambodian man from CS (couchsurfing.com), who said he would pick us up and have dinner with us. It was 10pm and we were suppose to be in at 7:30ish. He said he would come get us so I handed the phone to our driver so he could explain where we were. The driver handed the phone to tuk tuk driver, and after a short conversation in Cambodia he hung up. The tuk tuk told me Phansy said he was busy and wouldn’t be able to make it. The girls gave him three names of guest houses they read about in lonely planet and he told them they were full and offered to take us to another house. They get commissions from the guest houses. He also wanted to charge us $1 per person, when it was only suppose to be $1 all together. As I offered to give him $2 to take us to our guest house, Phansy pulled up on a motorbike. He explained that the Tuk Tuk told him the wrong location. Phansy thought I was alone which is why he came by bike but he told us to wait and he called a car. When the car arrived he took us to our guest house, free of charge and we made plans for lunch the following day. We checked into Popular Guest House, one recommend by Lonely Planet and suggested by the girls. Mandalay Inn was across the street and was what Phansy suggested. Popular was 17$ a night for three of us, one single and one double bed, while across the street it was 18$ with free internet and wifi, but they were booked full. I put our name down for a room for the following day. Next morning we moved across the street and met phansy for lunch. He answered all our questions about Ankor wat and the surrounding temples, how to get around, what to do in town…everything we needed! He was great. Again I am going to RAVE about how amazing www.couchsurfing.com is. I paid for his lunch and we went to buy our bus tickets from Siem Reap to Phnom Phen. Phansy said we needed to go ahead and get them before the busses were full. We decided we would make a full day of temples the following morning, sunrise to sunset and then leave first thing Sunday morning. The girls bought tickets all the way thru to a lil beach area while I decided to stay in Phnom Phen for a night to see the “Killing Fields” and then continue to Vietnam the following day. We returned to our guest house and played on the very very slow internet and the girls left for smoothies while I worked out our transportation for the temples. Rin, another CSer, is a tuk tuk driver so I called him to see if would drive us. He met me at the guest house and we discussed our itinerary. We were to be picked up at 4:30 and stay til sunset, with transportation to 5 different temples. The cost was 15 USD, the same that the guest house had quoted us. The returned at 7pm and we left for the Night Market. I stopped for food at a street vendor that was full of Cambodian people eating. I told the girls to go to the market and I’d see them there or at back at the hotel later. The food ended up being _________, a Cambodian dessert that was AMAZING. Bread, fruit, that clear jello stuff, shaved ice, milk and some kind of white syrup on top! It was only .50 USD. On my way into the market I ran into the Japanese kids and the asked to take pictures with me, again I dreamed of the stories they would tell! I asked them to write in my book of people I’ve met. I have everyone I spend any significant time with write in this book. I explain that later down the road I’ll read it and remember our time together and that I won’t be reading for at least a few weeks or month to come. So far I’ve only read Andy’s, Natalies, Akes, Ploy’s and Alicia’s. There are still a lot to read. I saw for girls sitting at the “Island Bar” a gazebo bar in the middle of the market and I asked if I could join them for a bite. They were from England and leaving the next day for Thailand on a bus. I told them they might want to consider hiring a taxi instead and told them about our adventures. Behind the bar a young Cambodian man was doing some amazing bar flaring and I walked over to give it a go. He was happy to have someone to play with and showed me some new moves. My flaring skills were nothing compared to his. I walked around the market a full lap and then went back a second time to make my purchases. Now I’m back at the guest house, where I found the girls fast asleep in bed. Its now 1 am so I should be sleeping too! Good night

Bangkok Nights

(9.10.08 1:11 am Lunch break Somewhere in Thailand)
I’m currently at our rest stop/lunch break on the first of two legs to Cambodia from Bangkok. First thing Monday(9.8.08) morning we stopped by the Cambodian embassy to get my visa and then headed to Khoa San Rd so I could book my ticket and grab my battery charger. I also printed and mailed post cards. PLEASE send me an email if you get a postcard so I will know you got it. I didn’t put USA on it so I don’t know if it will make it. On Khoa San I walked around and did a little shopping. We then met some of Mimi’s CS friends for dinner and headed back to Khoa San for drinks. They sat at street side place and drank buckets of mixed drinks while I shopped some more. I showed back up and found them sitting with two beautiful girls from Sweden, so I decided to stick around. We began taking “Facebook Pictures”, which quickly turned into a way for us guys to get the girls to make out with us for photo sake. The Swedish girls wanted to dance so we made our way down Khoa San to the Lava Bar, a hip hop joint that was nearly empty. We danced, made out and they drank. The Swedish girls were staying right across the street so one of them took me over to show me their room. On the way to her room we came across a baby elephant walking down Khoa San. I couldn’t resist buying the sugar cane for 50b to feed him and take pictures. The details of the next hours won’t be discussed here but you can feel free to individually ask for pics and the story. We ended up staying out til 3am and then Mimi and I headed back to her house. Next morning I woke up at noon to meet Gayani, the CS’er I met in Bangkok my first night, to get my backpack that she was holding for me. We met at an upscale shopping mall close to her house, where the merchandise was more expensive than in American malls! She treated me to a very expensive lunch and I met her friend from the Dominican Republic who will be in Vietnam same time as me. I met Mimi back at her house and we took a subway to meet one of CS friends. I went to a meeting while she had dinner with him. After the meeting I went out with the boys, Dave and JD, both in Bangkok from Chiang Mai after their recent 10 trip to Cambodia. Went to the Absolute bar to play some pool. There was a Thai girl who had been running the table and she continued right through the boys. Of course when I came up her rein ended. There was western guy and his “Thai GF” that showed up and were on the list for pool next. I took him down and then his, drugged up crazy thai friend, placed bet with me on her game. She wanted to bet 500b but I told her 100. Then JD put 200b on me. She ended scratching on the eight ball but in Thailand they play by “Thai Rules” and there was much confusion, mainly by her, on whether or not I won. JD ended up giving her, her money back and we left the bar. The boys insisted that I would go to the Red Light district with them. This turned into the Red Light district(S). We bounced from bar to bar, drinking soda water for 120b a glass. Again the rest of the details from this night won’t be discussed here. Well except that there was a mechanical bull at one of the bars that I rode, very well I might add. (See www.youtube.com/timlara for video) Around 3:30 I finally made it home and had to wake up at 6am to catch my bus. I arrived at Khoa San and sat with three girls, who turned out to be from the Big Island, for breakfast. At 7:30 I made my way to the travel agents shop to be picked up. At 8am they finally arrived and I escorted, by foot, to two different waiting areas for more passengers. Finally making it to the bus we found that the A/C was broken and the driver was trying to fix it. Now 9am we finally got on the road. I would love to say that the A/C continued to work on our 60 passenger bus with no windows, but that would be a lie. We are now at our lunch stop about 1 hour away from the boarder of Cambodia. My ticket allows me transport all the way to Siem Reap, changing to a smaller bus at the boarder for another 6-8 hour bus ride. Apparently the road on the Cambodia side is crap and it was suggested that I dig out on my bus ride and take a cab. It will be half the time, however I will have to pay 30-60 us. There are two Israeli girls that are down to share the fare. I plan to spend the entire day tomorrow, sun up til sunrise, exploring the Angkor Wat Temples and the head to Vietnam the following day, if there isn’t anything else to do in Cambodia. I have CS hosts’ lined up for three cities in Vietnam but was unable to find one for Cambodia. A hui ho

1 day in Laos

(Sunday 9.7.08 11pm Bus from Chiang Rai to Bangkok)
Thursday morning when I woke up Pa-pa took the motorbike to get the registration renewed. Upon his return I met Paw in the city for lunch. I pretty much wasted the morning away with the exception of getting my teeth cleaned and going to the travel agent to book my bus ride to Chiang Khong for Saturday. I also had them get my visa for Vietnam. In the afternoon I met Andy at A Taste from Heaven, we rode the motorbike to the Tiger Kingdom. It was about 15-20 ride out of Chiang Mai. I found an ad for Tiger Kingdom in the tourist magazine I’ve been using a map out of. We arrived at about 7pm to be informed that the ad, which stated they were open til 9pm, was outdated and that now the tiger visits close at 6pm but the restaurant remains open til 9pm. I didn’t let it go and was able to work my way into seeing the tigers! They have three different groups: Big Tigers, Small Tigers and Newborns. At first I was told I could only see the small tigers since the others were eating. The price was 300 b for 15 min and you actually go right in their cage and can pet them and play with them. Right before we went in, they informed me that now the only tigers available were the newborns (500b), which I was actually hoping to see anyways. They don’t allow flash photography, which made challenging photos in the low light room, and, is why they stopped tours after sunset (6pm). However I did manage to get a few good shots of one cub that had fallen asleep. I got several good video clips! www.youtube.com/timlara It was really neat there was a 20 by 20 room with a small cage inside. I was the only person in there with the exception of the worker. She opened the cage door and three lil cubs came tumbling out. Two remained asleep inside. I sat on the floor and they began to climb all over me. They did bite, sometimes hard, and the trainer would give them a light slap. It was definitely a cool experience! When we returned to the city we met the two CA girls who were meeting two English girls to go to the markets. We persuaded them to join us at a Mui Thai fight first then hit the market. The fight was 400b “ringside”, all the seats are “ringside” and there were 8 fights, followed by a Cabaret (Lady Boy) show. The fights started with a two kids that looked about 8 years old and they got older as the night went on. There was even a girl fight and a four way blindfolded fight. The girls left at 10:30pm for the market and I pulled 4 other girls to our table to replace them. Two from England and two from Germany. I had met them earlier in the night while walking around the gym. Around 11:30 the first 4 girls returned which left Andy and I sitting with 8 girls. To be fair only 6 of them were good looking. After the fight we stayed for about 3 minutes of the Lady Boy show, enough time for me to get a couple of pics, then Andy forced me to go barhopping in the “red light” district. He said it’s something I had to do while in Thailand. Girl hollered and pleaded with us to come inside as we walked along a stretch of bars. My theory is, that the guys who enough these bars are the guys that don’t normally get much attention from ladies. Andy bought me a water while he drank a beer and 4 ladies kept us company. I was dead tired and decided to go home while Andy tried to convince me to check out one more stretch of bars. It was 2:30 and I insisted on going home. The next morning (Friday) I woke up at 11am and met Paw for lunch, I had a really hard time finding her and got really irritated with her directions over the phone. I finally met her and apologized for being rude, I NEED my coffee and food before I can operate in the morning. After lunch we went to a temple and I sat in the courtyard speaking to Keo, a student monk. I wasted the rest of day at A Taste of Heaven on the internet. I did manage to meet a girl there from Oregon and pick her brain on travel. OH, and I went to the local market to buy a pair of traditional northern Thai pants, like the ones I wore when I got my massage in Phrao. Friday night was “Family Dinner” and Paw said I should attend. Ake suggested I buy a bottle of wine or some flowers for her parents. So I bought three “ring flowers” (flower lei’s). We went to a upscale modern Thai restaurant and the food was amazing. They also had tradition northern Thai music and dance at the restaurant while we ate. After dinner I drug Paw out to meet Ploy, from Phrao, and her friends out for drinks. We started at Bombay, trendy bar by the university and then headed to Warm Up night club, another university hot spot. Andy joined us but Ake said it wasn’t his scene. The night club was huge, with one room for hip-hop, one for live music, one for electronic and one for just cruising. We started in the hip hop room and it was packed FULL. Alicia, a New Yorker volunteering with Ploy at Warm Hearts, noticed that we were the only ones dancing and suggested that since that were the case we should dance “hard”. I instantly fell in love with Alicia, I was drawn to her in Phrao after seeing her dance I knew she would have to be my wife. I convinced the girls to jump on the stage with me and quickly became the life of the party until we were made to get down by the bouncers. I hadn’t danced that hard since my ATL trip! (Now it’s 1pm 9.8.08; Bangkok, Mimi’s house)Next morning, Saturday, I awoke at 9am and ate breakfast at Paw’s parents’ house before she gave me a ride to the city to catch my 10am bus for the border of Laos. A five hour, 11 passenger, van ride took us to the border and I took a water taxi to the Laos side of the boarder: Hoi Xiao (spelling?). It was a small one road town and not many westerners, I did notice two girls down the street, so I made my way to stalk them. When I walked in the internet café I was surprised by the fact that there were actually 6 girls there!! They were part of a tour group consisting of 8 girls; 24-27 yrs old. They invited me to dinner and suggested I could get a room where they were staying. I followed three of the girls to their guest house and checked prices of other guest houses on the way. They were all about 70,000 kip, Laos’s currency, or about 260 b. When we arrived I asked the manager how much for a room and he said 80.000 kip, “too much” I responded. “My bungalows 150,000 kip! 80,000 kip very cheap!!!” he snapped back as I made my way out the door. I told the girls I didn’t like the manager and I would stay at Saybadee guest house across from the internet café. The girls went to Riverside Restaurant while I checked into my room. On my way to meet the girls I noticed a lone backpacker girl looking for room, I offered her to split my room and she agreed. I continued on to the restaurant to meet the girls and she joined after dropping her bags at our room. Our table got some looks, as there were 9 girls and two guys: Blaire their guide and myself. After dinner we went for drinks and stayed past our welcome, the owners began shutting down the bar and giving us stink eye. Next morning I went to check the price of a speed boat to Luang Prapang (1,440 b), ate breakfast, checked out of room and went back to catch my boat. When I arrived a boat was on it way out with 6 passengers and I was told to wait for the next boat. There were two Laos women waiting and they said they needed 6 for a trip. An hour and half later they tried to charge me 1400 b to get to Pek Peng, which is not even half way to Luang Prapang! I told him it was too much and he said I could pay 4,700 to Luang Prapang today or 1400 to Pek Peng, or wait til tomorrow for a full boat. About this time i realized i should have taken the package deal for 1300b all the way from Chiang Mai to Luang Prapang! I was frustrated and sick of dealing with the Laos people and language barrier, so I decided to head back to Thailand where the people are nice. I crossed back over the river and caught a bus local bus, with no A/C, to Chiang Rai 70b 2 ½ hours. It stopped nearly 100 times to pick up more people. At Chiang Rai I caught a 1st class A/c bus back to Bangkok 668b 12hours. When I got in at 6am I took a cab to Mimi’s house, couch surf host, and took a nap for a few hours. Now it’s about 1pm and I am going to Khoa San rd to pick up my battery charger I left at the travel agents and do some shopping. I think I will go to Cambodia from here and then make my way to South Vietnam and make my way north?

Chiang Mai

(Wednesday 10:30pm Chiang Mai)
It’s currently about 10:30 and I’m sitting in (my) two bedroom house in Chiang Mai. Paw (pronounced: Pau) is my current couch surfing host. Except instead of letting me “surf her couch”, she has arrange for me to stay at friend of her family’s house in her neighborhood. The families’ house I’m staying at lives in the states and is only in Thailand a few weeks out of the year so I have the house to myself!! It has A/C, HOT water and (Thai) cable TV. Paw’s parents and herself both have their own cars so they are allowing me to use their motorbike. To rent a motorbike is anywhere from 150b-300b a day. I got in yesterday around 3pm and met Andy and Natalie at our meeting place, Taste of Heaven. Hitch hiking turned out to be really simple; I got picked up in 5 min and jumped in the back of a pick up truck heading for Chiang Mai. A woman on a motorbike stopped to pick me up first but when I told her I was heading to Chiang Mai she said no. The truck dropped me off in the city and it was just a quick cab ride to meet Andy and Nat. We talked, played on the internet and got a quick bite. I called Paw and arranged to meet her after her Yoga class, at 8pm for dinner, which gave me plenty of time to catch the 6:30 mtg at McCormick Hospital. This was my second mtg of my travels, the first was in Bangkok my first day there. There weren’t any mtgs in Pai or Phroa. Paw took me to a really cute lil veggie restaurant in an upscale part of town and we walked for dessert afterwards. Arriving home I met “maa-maa” and she gathered linens for me and walked us over to my house. This morning Paw woke me up and introduced me to “Paa-paa”, who gave me a quick motorbike riding test to insure his bike would be ok. Paw had a full day of Yoga classes and English certification test, so I called Nat and Andy to see what their day looked like. I stopped by a Mui Tai (Thai Kickboxing) gym to see if I could train with them. For 300 b a day I can train twice, 630-930am and again from 4-7pm. I met Nat for cup of coffee before her all day Thai cooking class and said goodbye. I stopped by a temple, Wat Chedi Luang, to see if I could find out when/where “monk chat” is. I heard they have time set aside in the day where you can go and speak with the monks about Buddhism, life, love, philosophy… whatever. It was a beautiful temple and I got lost in taking pictures. In the temple there was a monk sitting on a platform who appeared to be meditating. There were many flowers and ornaments around him. I carefully took pictures, no flash, trying not to disturb him. There was a Thai man taking pictures of the temple as well. I asked to see some of his photos and gladly showed me, and then he offered me his tripod to use. The Thai people are such friendly people. I went to ask the people at the entrance of the temple who the meditating monk was. His name was --------------- and this was actually his funeral!!!!! He was a highly regarded monk and he passed away a few days ago. The whole time I thought he was meditating and he is really dead. It’s just a wax figure!! Look at the pics and you’ll see how real he looks, even knowing its fake I still have a hard time believing it. Now knowing I would disturb the monk, I got a lil more liberal with my photos. Before I knew it I had been in the temple over an hour and was late for meeting Paw and Andy for lunch at, Taste from Heaven. We ate lunch and I remained by myself to upload pics, checking emails and couch searching (looking for new hosts’) in Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia. Realizing I was wasting the day away I left to find a travel agent so I could weigh my options on getting to Laos. For 2300b I can take a 5 hour bus ride to the border, and then take a 6 hour speed boat or two day 11 hour slow boat ride to Luang Phabang, Laos. Another option is 400b 5 hour bus ride to the border. I think I’m gonna hitch hike for the experience again! Then when I get to the river, try to hitch hike on a supply boat or something? I went back to the temple to see about Monk Chat, since I never got around to asking before and I was again side tracked by Chanting Time; for about 30 min straight all the young monks filled the temple and chanted out loud. I met two girls from California and all three of us jumped on the motorbike and headed to another temple. It was almost dark and the temple was closed so we jumped on the bike and I took them across town to their guest house. After using the wifi there I left to meet Paw for dinner at an artsy lil Japanese restaurant in the same neighborhood as the night before. The food was out of this world!!! We again walked for ice cream and then returned home for bed. Tomorrow morning I am either waking up for Mui Thai or I am going to Yoga with Paw, then at 2pm I have a dentist appointment to have a cleaning, check up and teeth whitening. Andy got a cleaning, check up and two cavities filled for 90$ us!! I haven’t had insurance for about a year now and I’m past due for a cleaning. A Hui Ho!!

Pai and Phrao, Thailand

1:30 am Monday morning.

I’m currently sitting in a bungalow in Phrao, a small farming village in Northern Thailand about 2 hours out of Chiang Mai.
We met Ake (pronounced Ek), a Thai real estate investor, shortly after I posted the last update and headed North to a small mellow town called Pai. The road to Pai is very windy, similar to the road to Hana except it’s wider and up thru the mountains. Oh ya there aren’t waterfalls everywhere either. We arrived at Akes vacation house took showers and left for dinner. Ake took us to a hidden lil restaurant called Farmers House; it’s a guest house and restaurant. We would have never found it without Ake. We sat right on a pond in a gazebo like setting. Tradition table with no chairs, sitting on the ground with shoes off. The food was amazing traditional Thai which ake ordered for us. After dinner we walked through the streets of Pai, however most of the shops were closed and those that were open were trying to close. Arriving home about 11pm I quickly jumped in bed and was fast asleep. Next morning I awoke first at 8:30am and waited for the rest of the group to awaken. We had coffee and hung out at the house while Ake helped his workers do some projects around the property. We stopped in town for breakfast and then walked around the town center. On the way out of town we stopped at another of Akes friends’ houses for lunch, Crazy Kitchen, which again we would have never had the opportunity to eat at had it not been for Ake. Again we ate very traditional Thai food ordered by ake: Red curry, coconut soup, pad Thai. Crazy’s husband is an artist and woodworker so we walked back to see his work. Natalie had been wanting to buy a Salor, traditional Thai instrument similar to a violin. The husband just so happened to make them. He played it for us and then showed her how to play it (see video). Natalie ended up ordering one to be handmade for her, 2000b, and delivered back to Chiang Mai. The trip to Pai was beautiful and I’m most grateful to Ake for driving us up and hosting us at his vacay house, however I wish we could have spent a lil more time exploring the town, people and going on excursions. They have day trips for elephant treks, white water rafting, kayaking and trekking. On the road back home Natalie and I both got car sick, as we did on the way to Pai, however we didn’t throw up. We arrived back in Chiang Mai at 6ish pm and were dropped off in the center of town by the market. Andy, Nat and I parted ways as I went to meet Ploy, a Thai couch surfing girl who lives in Phrao but happened to be in the city. She was had just finished dinner in the Temple with Jan a elderly couch surfer from England and the three of us walked around the Sunday Night Market for an hour together. Ploy and I then headed to Riverside Bar and Restaurant for some drinks and live music. (Tuesday 11:33pm at Internet Café in Phrao)Around midnight we took off for Phrao a small farming village about two hours away. Ploy is currently working with the Warm Hearts Foundation up here. Yesterday morning we woke up at 8:30 and I dropped Ploy off at work, she allowed me to use here truck during the day. I went for breakfast and coffee and then got trapped at the internet café uploading pictures and playing on the internet. I pick her up for lunch and we went to “secret noodle place” for the most amazing noodles ever!!! After lunch she took me to some hot springs just outside of Phrao. The outside pools were too hot since it had just rained the night before so we soaked in one of the private bath houses. I felt soo sedated. It was nice to feel warm water again and especially nice to be able to soak in it. We then went into town for traditional Thai Massage. Ploy told me this that it was special massage, they use acupuncture points in the massage to heal your body. We were both going to get an hour massage for 120 b but by the time it was over I ended up getting a 2 hour massage with herbal healing. The lady was amazing and found damaged nerves on both my shoulders and both thighs. I thought I was going to die; the massage definitely was NOT relaxing. I was squirming the whole time and she made me ‘tap out’ twice. She worked awhile on each damaged nerve and the pain was excruciating! We then met some co-workers of Ploy’s for Thai BBQ. There is a clay pot of coals on the table with a medal basin sitting on top, similar to fondue. They bring raw meat and you cook it in the soup or on the hot medal dome sticking out of the middle. This morning I took Ploy to work again then went driving in the country to take pictures of the rice fields. It’s almost time for me to pick Ploy up for lunch, after which I’m going to hitch hike back into Chiang Mai, 90 Kilometers away. They have a bus for 85b, a lil less than 3$, but I want to hitch hike for the experience  A Hui Ho.